Feline Punishment
Punishment is the application of a stimulus that decreases
the chance that a behavior will be repeated. It must coincide
with the undesirable behavior, and must be unpleasant enough
to deter the cat from repeating that behavior. Inappropriately
applied punishment can cause fear, anxiety and owner avoidance,
making punishment the least desirable tool for changing
behavior. Keep in mind that you are punishing the behavior,
not the cat. Punishment should never be considered unless
the pet has the means to satisfy its nature and its needs.
For example, the scratching cat should be provided with
an appropriate scratching post before any attempts to punish
undesirable scratching are initiated.
When is a physical reprimand acceptable?
Physical reprimands are one of the most frequently utilized
and least successful forms of punishment. Hitting a cat
can lead to hand-shyness, fear of the owner, and potential
injury for both the owner and the cat. Depending on the
problem, the cat will likely continue to perform the undesirable
behavior in your absence since it learns that it can perform
the behavior without punishment when you are out of sight.
Physical punishment is generally ineffective, potentially
dangerous and likely to have a negative effect between the
owner and pet.
What can I do to stop my cat from engaging in rough
play with me?
A light tap on the nose or top of the head has been advocated
for owner directed behaviors such as play biting, hissing
and swatting. However, even these mild forms of punishment
can lead to retaliation, fear and an increased level of
aggression in some cats, and cannot therefore be universally
recommended. At the very least they tend to make the cat
wary of your approach. Instead, whenever the cat begins
to swat or play attack, immediately stop the play by walking
away or by using some non-physical form of punishment such
as a water sprayer, can of compressed air, cap gun, hand
held alarm or perhaps a loud hiss. Although ideally you
should just walk away from these forms of playful behavior
to ensure that they are not reinforced, many cats will continue
to pursue as part of the play and chase. Before any punishment
is considered, the cat should be given ample opportunities
for social play. Toys that can be chased, swatted, and batted
should be provided. (See our articles on play and play toys
in cats and play aggression). Species appropriate punishment
such as “hissing” or the use of a punishment
devices such as a water sprayer, can of compressed air,
or hand held alarm are better than using any physical techniques
since they are less likely to lead to fear and retaliation.
There may be times when gently shaking or lifting the cat
by the scruff of the neck can be used to successfully calm,
distract or restrain a cat but only to disrupt undesirable
behavior and not as a punishment. Remember that giving any
form of attention to a cat that is swatting, or attacking
in play, might, at the other extreme be misconstrued as
play, and further reinforce the behavior.
How can I discourage my cat from other behaviors?
The key to successfully stopping undesirable behavior is
to associate an unpleasant consequence with the undesirable
behavior. However, unless the owner remains out of sight
while administering punishment the cat may learn to cease
the behavior only when you are present. Punishing the cat
remotely, while you remain out of sight, is an effective
means of deterring undesirable behavior. However, it takes
preparation, time and forethought. Another effective means
of punishment is to booby-trap an area, so that the cat
learns to “stay away”. Keep in mind that the
cat must also have appropriate outlets for play, exercise,
scratching, climbing, jumping and chasing.
How does remote punishment work?
For remote techniques to be successful there are two key
elements. First, you must monitor the cat while out of sight
so that you know when the problem begins. The second element
is that the punishment must be delivered while the inappropriate
behavior is occurring (while you remain out of sight).
Keep a close watch on the problem area while hidden around
a corner, in a nearby closet, or behind a piece of furniture.
Or, monitor your cat using an intercom, a motion detector
or even just a set of bells that might “jingle”
when disturbed.
As soon as the cat enters the area or begins to perform
the undesirable behavior (climb, scratch), use a long-range
water pistol, noise device or remote control device (see
below) to chase the cat away.
If the cat cannot determine where the noise or water is
coming from, it should quickly learn to stay away from the
area whether the owner is present or not.
A commercial remote device is the citronella spray collar.
It can be attached to a harness on the cat or just placed
in the area and activated remotely as the cat enters the
area. Another option is to set up a remote control switch
near the problem area and have a device such as a water
pik, alarm, or hair dryer plugged in.
When the owner is not around to supervise and monitor,
booby trap devices can be utilized or the cat should be
confined to an area of the home that has been cat-proofed
and supplied with a litter box, bedding area, toys for play
and areas for scratching or climbing.
How can I booby-trap the environment to punish
the pet?
Punishing the behavior remotely, with you out of sight,
is impractical if the cat cannot be prevented from performing
the undesirable behavior, when you are not there to supervise
and monitor. Booby-traps are a way of teaching the pet to
avoid the area or the behavior itself. One of the simplest
ways to discourage a cat from entering an area where an
undesirable behavior is likely to be performed (scratching,
eliminating) is to make the area less appealing (or downright
unpleasant) for scratching or eliminating. If the cat is
scratching furniture, a large piece of material draped over
the furniture may do the trick, since the cat won’t
be able to get its claws into the loose fabric. A small
pyramid of empty tin cans or plastic containers could also
be balanced on the arm of a chair so that it topples onto
the cat when scratching begins. A piece of plastic carpet
runner with the “nubs” facing up can be placed
over a scratched piece of furniture to reduce its appeal,
or a few strips of double-sided sticky tape would send most
cats looking for another place to scratch (hopefully the
scratching post). Mousetrap trainers, shock mats, or motion
detector alarms are also very effective at keeping cats
away from problem areas. There are also devices that are
triggered by motion that will spray the cat with compressed
air and startle them so they leave the area (See our article
on scratching in cats). For outdoor use, there are motion
detector sprinklers, a motion activated compressed air spray,
and a variety of sonic and ultrasonic motion detectors (See
‘Behavior management products’ article for more
details).
Most of these same booby traps would also be effective
for destructive behaviors such as chewing and sucking. Taste
deterrents might also be helpful, provided they are unpleasant
enough to deter the behavior. Products such as bitter apple,
bitter lime or Tabasco sauce are often recommended, but
many cats quickly learn to accept the taste. A little water
mixed with cayenne pepper, oil of eucalyptus, any non-toxic
mentholated product, or one of the commercial anti-chew
sprays often work. To be effective, the first exposure to
a product must be as repulsive as is humanely possible,
so that the cat is immediately repelled whenever it smells
or tastes that product again. Therefore a spray of the bitter
spray into the cats mouth might be most effective, to reduce
the chances of the cat returning to the area. Never leave
any objects or areas untreated until the cat learns to leave
the object or area alone.
Perhaps most important, punishment whether interactive
or remote should never be a substitute for good supervision
and the opportunity to engage in the proper behavior. This
is very important with kittens that are learning what is
acceptable in a new home. Prevention, by confining the cat
to a cat-proofed area with toys, scratching post, litter
and water is often the best solution, when the owners are
not available to supervise.
This client information sheet is based on material written
by Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB & Gary Landsberg,
DVM, Diplomate ACVB
© Copyright 2005 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission
under license. December 10, 2004